PMU essentials
What is permanent makeup?
Permanent makeup (PMU), also known as cosmetic tattooing or micropigmentation, uses implanted pigment to enhance features such as eyebrows, lips or eyeliner. It is designed to fade gradually, so colour and shape can be reviewed as time, preferences and facial features change.
How long does permanent makeup last?
There is no single timeframe because skin, lifestyle, sun exposure, skincare and individual healing all affect retention. PMU is designed to fade gradually, and maintenance appointments may be used to keep the colour looking fresh. A responsible practitioner should not guarantee exactly how long an individual result will last.
Why is a PMU consultation important?
A consultation gives the practitioner and client time to discuss goals, medical history, skin, the treatment process and realistic expectations before proceeding. It is also the right place to ask questions and decide whether the proposed treatment is appropriate for that individual.
Why do realistic expectations matter?
PMU cannot promise perfection or an identical result for every person. A clear consultation should explain the intended result, normal variation, the healing journey and any planned follow-up. Honest expectations help clients make an informed decision and reduce misunderstandings later.
Pigment and colour
How do I choose the correct pigment?
Choosing the correct pigment starts with a thorough consultation and skin assessment. Consider your client’s natural skin tone, undertone, natural hair colour, eye colour, age, previous permanent makeup and the healed result they are hoping to achieve. No two clients are the same, so avoid selecting pigments based on habit alone. Remember that pigments heal differently once implanted into the skin, so your choice should always be based on the expected healed result rather than how the pigment appears in the bottle.
Should I choose pigment based on my client’s hair colour?
No. Although hair colour can help guide your decision, it should never be the only factor you consider. Hair colour can be changed easily, whereas skin tone and undertones remain far more consistent. The goal is to create a healed result that complements your client’s natural features rather than simply matching their current hairstyle.
Why is skin tone important when choosing pigment?
Skin tone plays a major role in how pigment heals. The same pigment may heal beautifully on one client but look completely different on another. This is because every client’s skin interacts differently with implanted pigment. Assessing skin tone carefully allows you to choose colours that heal naturally and complement your client’s complexion.
Why are undertones so important?
Undertones are one of the most important factors in successful pigment selection. Understanding whether your client has warm, cool or neutral undertones helps you predict how pigment is likely to heal and allows you to select colours that create balanced, natural-looking results. Ignoring undertones can increase the risk of healed colours appearing less flattering over time.
Can pigments heal differently to how they look in the bottle?
Yes. Pigments almost always heal differently once implanted into the skin. The colour you see during treatment is not the final healed colour. As the skin heals, the pigment softens and interacts with the client’s skin tone and undertones, creating the final healed appearance. This is why experience and understanding colour theory are essential when selecting pigments.
Can previous permanent makeup affect my pigment choice?
Absolutely. If a client has previous permanent makeup, this must always be taken into consideration before selecting your pigment. Residual pigment, healed colour, saturation and previous corrections can all influence the final outcome. Failing to assess existing pigment properly may result in unpredictable healed results. Always assess what is already in the skin before deciding what to implant.
Can I mix pigments together?
Yes. Mixing pigments allows you to customise colours to suit individual clients and achieve more predictable healed results. Only mix pigments according to your manufacturer’s recommendations and ensure accurate treatment records are kept of every pigment used. Recording your pigment choices also allows you to recreate or adjust formulas at future appointments.
Can healed pigment change colour over time?
Yes. Permanent makeup naturally changes over time as pigment gradually fades within the skin. Factors such as sun exposure, skin type, skincare products, lifestyle, previous treatments and natural pigment breakdown can all influence how the healed colour changes. Regular maintenance appointments help keep the colour looking fresh and balanced.
Why has my client’s permanent makeup faded?
Fading is a completely normal part of permanent makeup. Over time, the body gradually breaks down implanted pigment, while environmental factors such as UV exposure and certain skincare products may also contribute to fading. Fading does not necessarily mean the treatment has failed—it simply means the client may benefit from a maintenance appointment.
Does lifestyle affect healed results?
Yes. A client’s lifestyle can have a significant impact on both healing and long-term pigment retention. Frequent sun exposure, swimming, regular exfoliation, active skincare ingredients and certain professional skin treatments may all contribute to faster fading. Encourage clients to follow the recommended aftercare advice and continue protecting their permanent makeup once healing has finished.
Top-up treatments
What is a top-up treatment?
A top-up treatment is the follow-up appointment carried out after the initial procedure once the skin has fully healed. This appointment allows you to assess the healed results, strengthen colour where required and make any minor refinements to achieve the desired outcome. The top-up should not be viewed as correcting mistakes, but as completing the treatment process.
Why is a top-up treatment important?
Every client heals differently. Some clients retain pigment exceptionally well, while others may lose more pigment during the healing process. A top-up allows you to refine the healed result based on how each individual client has responded. Without a top-up, some clients may experience uneven retention or a lighter healed result than expected.
When should I carry out a top-up treatment?
A top-up should only be considered once the skin has fully healed and the practitioner can assess the settled result. The timing must follow the current treatment protocol and the practitioner’s written advice; it should not be brought forward simply because an area looks light during healing.
What should I assess before starting the top-up?
Before beginning treatment, take time to assess the healed results carefully. Consider: • Pigment retention • Colour • Shape • Symmetry • Areas of reduced retention • The overall healed appearance Discuss the healed results with your client and explain what you plan to improve before starting treatment.
Can I make the pigment darker during the top-up?
Yes. If the healed result requires additional colour and it remains suitable for your client’s skin tone and desired outcome, pigment can be reinforced during the top-up. Always build colour gradually and avoid over-saturating the skin.
Can I change the shape during a top-up?
Minor refinements may be possible where appropriate. However, significant changes to shape are rarely achievable without making the treatment area larger or compromising the overall result. Always explain honestly what is and isn’t achievable before treatment begins.
What if my client wants a completely different result?
If your client’s expectations have changed since the initial treatment, take time to discuss what they are hoping to achieve. Assess whether their request is realistic and explain any limitations before proceeding. If the requested changes are not achievable safely, explain your reasons professionally and discuss alternative options where appropriate.
Why has one area healed differently from another?
It is completely normal for different areas to heal differently. Variations in skin thickness, circulation, movement, healing response and aftercare can all influence pigment retention. The top-up appointment allows you to reinforce these areas and create a more balanced final result.
Can every client have a top-up treatment?
Most clients will benefit from a top-up treatment, provided the skin has healed well and there are no contraindications preventing further treatment. Always complete a new consultation, update the medical history and assess the skin before proceeding, even if you treated the client only a few weeks earlier.
Colour boosts
What is a colour boost?
A colour boost is a maintenance treatment carried out after the permanent makeup has naturally faded. Its purpose is to refresh the existing pigment, restore definition and maintain the overall appearance of the treatment. A colour boost should enhance existing permanent makeup rather than completely redesign it.
When should my client have a colour boost?
There is no universal calendar for colour boosts. Skin, lifestyle, sun exposure, skincare and pigment retention all affect fading. A practitioner should assess the healed colour, shape and saturation before recommending maintenance, rather than booking it automatically because a set amount of time has passed.
Why do some clients need colour boosts sooner than others?
Every client fades at a different rate. Oily skin, frequent sun exposure, active skincare products, swimming, regular exfoliation and individual healing responses can all contribute to faster fading. Some clients may require maintenance earlier, while others may not need a colour boost for several years.
Can I carry out a colour boost after several years?
Yes, provided the existing permanent makeup is still suitable to work over. Before treatment, assess the healed colour, saturation, shape and overall condition of the existing permanent makeup. In some cases, a colour boost may still be appropriate, while in others, removal or correction may be the better option.
Can I colour boost another artist’s work?
Yes, but only after completing a thorough consultation and assessment. You are accepting responsibility for the work moving forward, so you must assess the healed colour, saturation, shape and suitability before agreeing to treatment. If you’re not confident you can improve the existing work safely, it’s perfectly acceptable to decline treatment.
Can I make the colour darker during a colour boost?
Yes. If the existing permanent makeup has faded appropriately and a darker healed result is suitable for your client, colour can be gradually reinforced during the maintenance appointment. Avoid dramatically increasing intensity in a single treatment.
Can I make permanent makeup lighter during a colour boost?
No. Additional pigment cannot make permanent makeup lighter. If a client wishes to reduce the intensity of their permanent makeup, discuss realistic expectations and appropriate removal or correction options where necessary.
Can I change the shape during a colour boost?
Minor refinements may be possible, but significant shape changes are usually limited. A colour boost is designed to maintain and refresh existing permanent makeup rather than completely redesign it. If substantial changes are required, discuss whether removal or corrective work would be more appropriate.
How do I know if permanent makeup is too saturated for a colour boost?
Assess the existing pigment carefully. If the permanent makeup is still dark, heavily saturated or has become blurred over time, adding more pigment may worsen the overall appearance. In these situations, discuss alternative options with your client before proceeding.
Can permanent makeup become over-saturated?
Yes. Repeatedly adding pigment without allowing sufficient fading between treatments can lead to over-saturation, making the permanent makeup appear heavy and reducing flexibility for future maintenance. Always assess whether additional pigment is genuinely needed.
Should every client have regular colour boosts?
Not necessarily. Some clients naturally retain pigment for much longer than others and may not require maintenance as frequently. Recommend colour boosts based on the appearance of the healed permanent makeup rather than encouraging unnecessary treatments.
How do I know when it’s time for a colour boost?
The ideal time for a colour boost is when the permanent makeup has softened and faded but still retains a good shape and colour foundation. Waiting until the pigment has faded appropriately allows you to refresh the treatment without creating unnecessary saturation.
Professional practice
Why is communication so important?
Good communication helps build trust, confidence and realistic expectations. Take the time to explain every stage of the treatment, answer questions honestly and ensure your client understands both the benefits and limitations of permanent makeup. Clients who feel informed are generally more relaxed throughout the treatment process and are more likely to enjoy a positive experience.
How do I manage client expectations?
Managing expectations starts during the consultation. Be honest about what permanent makeup can realistically achieve and avoid making promises you cannot guarantee. Discuss the healing process, explain that healed results vary from person to person and ensure your client understands that permanent makeup is a cosmetic enhancement—not perfection.
What if my client wants something I don’t recommend?
Listen carefully to what your client is asking for and explain your professional opinion clearly. If you believe the requested treatment would produce an unsuitable result or compromise the appearance of the permanent makeup, explain why and recommend a more suitable alternative. If your client insists on something you are not comfortable performing, politely decline the treatment.
What if my client changes their mind during treatment?
Pause the treatment and discuss their concerns calmly. Small adjustments may be possible depending on the stage of the procedure, but significant changes are often best discussed before treatment begins. Always prioritise clear communication and realistic expectations.
Why are before and after photographs so important?
Before-and-after photographs create an accurate treatment record and help the practitioner compare the starting point with healed results. Permission to take clinical record photographs is separate from permission to use images for marketing, and both should be explained and recorded clearly.
Why should I keep detailed treatment records?
Accurate records support safe, consistent professional practice. They should cover the consultation, relevant history, consent, products and equipment used, photographs, aftercare information and important observations. Records must be stored securely and handled in line with applicable data-protection requirements.
What if my client is nervous?
Feeling nervous before permanent makeup is completely normal. Take time to explain the procedure, answer any questions and reassure your client throughout the appointment. A calm, confident approach helps your client feel safe and relaxed.
What if my client is late for their appointment?
Remain professional and assess whether there is still enough time to carry out the treatment safely. Avoid rushing a procedure to make up lost time, as this may compromise both the treatment and your client experience. Always follow your cancellation and late arrival policy consistently.
What if my client wants to bring someone with them?
This will depend on your clinic policy. While some clients may feel more comfortable bringing a friend or family member, additional people can sometimes become a distraction during treatment. If you choose not to allow guests, explain your policy politely and consistently.
How do I build trust with my clients?
Trust is built through honesty, professionalism and consistency. Be punctual, communicate clearly, maintain high hygiene standards, listen carefully and always act in your client’s best interests. Clients are far more likely to recommend an artist they trust than an artist who simply produces good results.
What should I do if I don’t know the answer?
No one knows everything. If you’re unsure about a situation, be honest with your client and take the time to seek advice before proceeding. Continuing your education and asking for support when needed is a sign of professionalism—not weakness.
